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wakirk2002

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  1. Well, in this case, it did work. Last time, it didn't as it was already activated. I got a support ticket in, I used Edge (aughhh..) since Brave doesn't like them. (or the other way around??) But what on earth is wrong with an account based unlock function like any other modern software? This is so 90's Microsoft level stuff that created the cracker market to begin with. How can these folks think of so many nice features and robust functionality and so screw it up when it comes to DRM? Even Microsoft finally got this right. Let me state this for what little it's worth... You can not stop someone from cracking your software. 20 years now companies have been trying, and it ultimately never works. The only thing can be done is to keep honest people honest. The best way to do that is make it as easy as it can be without giving away the farm. The common method that is the most out of the way and still works is account based methods. Microsoft does this with their Microsoft accounts, Steam lets you have multiple installations but won't let you run on both machines at the same time. etc. There's hundreds of other examples and most people are used to it by now. But for backup software, (which is a function of this software, data integrity) it is strange that such an old school 90's 2000's draconian system is in place. It boggles the mind. At least the data isn't locked behind this, or it would have been borderline criminal. It's that technique where the data is not stored on some crappy format that blows up your data the minute the software or hardware goes kaput is why I am continuing to fight with this. I find the decoupling of data from medium the most intriguing part of this software, and to have this crappy key lock system in place... augh.... WHY! I've already bought 3 copies, and before I knew this all was an issue, I had gotten a friend to get a copy.... this is before I realized what kind of land mine was built into the thing. "Crap happens" when it comes to computers, why make the clean up so frustrating when it otherwise would be a snap? For what it's worth.
  2. There are toooooo many ways to screw these licenses up and then have to throw more money at this, even Microsoft wasn't this bad. I had to get my project going, and I didn't have time to sit around with broken support and a broken project, I had to purchase a 2nd copy to to get the crap going again. NOW, here I am, AGAIN...... I was still in the cleanup process from the last time, I had deactivated stablebit so I could un-install and re-install it so I could build things back up, again, almost finished, again AGAIN, I deactivated it like a good little boy, and fine, I go to reinstall it.... did you catch what I didn't do? NO? really, neither did I. Unlike a smart product that has related components, I didn't go deactivate cloud drive and scanner AS WELL...... I just got through installing CC Cleaner bundle, and when I activated 1, I got all 4 activated, you know, like smart software does. (in case your are wondering, I had manually pulled the array apart, reasons related to the earlier bios and update 2004 fiasco and lockout) so, all drives clean, ready for the array to be rebuild, new disks arranged, new controller card (yea, a driver package for USB wasn't marked as FIRMWARE update... so, I needed new hardware, which changed the order of how my disks needed to be connected for optimal balancing between the two channels on the new card) And I come to discover that, being on the same machine, with the same hardware, and no changes, STILL locks me out. G D I..... Now, i am stuck with what, buying yet another copy of this? W A R N I N G : P S A! DO NOT BUY THIS PRODUCT IF YOU DON'T LIKE OVERZEALOUS LICENSE ACTIVATION RESTRICTIONS. BECAUSE IF YOU EVEN KIND OF MESS IT UP OR YOUR MACHINE CRASHES, YOU WILL BE BUYING ANOTHER COPY. UNDOCUMENTED RULES YOU WILL BE BEHOLDEN TO: (i.e. learn from my mistakes.) 1. YOU CAN NOT DEACTIVATE IT FROM THE WEB. 2. YOU CAN NOT RECOVER IT IF YOUR MACHINE CRASHES AND YOU NEED A FRESH INSTALL 3. CERTAIN HARDWARE CHANGES WILL BREAK IT AND LOCK YOU OUT. 4. UNABLE TO ACCESS SUPPORT WITHOUT USING VULNERABLE BROWSERS. 5. IF YOU FAIL TO DEACTIVATE IT BEFORE AN UNINSTALL YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO REINSTALL 6. YOU MUST DEACTIVATE ALL 3 PRODUCTS IF YOU HAVE THEM, FAIL DO SO LOCKS YOU OUT. 7. ALL THREE PRODUCTS DO NOT SHARE ACTIVATION OR DEACTIVATION, YOU MUST DO ALL 3. BUYER BEWARE, OUR YOU WILL BE A BUYER AGAIN. .... And the sad thing is, it's really a good product otherwise. Pardon me while I go spill another $50+ bucks. I'd rather pay a subscription at this point, it'd be cheaper. PS. I appreciate the help, but by the time I saw it, I had already purchased another copy to get things rolling again. so, I am not ungrateful.
  3. I have tired to contact Support but I get the following issue: Oops... An error has occurred while processing your request. Controller: Contact Action: Validate Error: Validation failed for one or more entities. See 'EntityValidationErrors' property for more details. System.Data.Entity.Validation.DbEntityValidationException: Validation failed for one or more entities. See 'EntityValidationErrors' property for more details. at CoveUtil.RetryBlock.Run[TException,TResult](Func`2 Func, Action`1 Control, Boolean ThrowOnOperationCanceled) in ....very long blah..blah..blah....SKIP! __22(IAsyncResult asyncResult) So, I am left posting this here on the forums in the hopes some one is actually able to contact them. We have an ASUS ROG ZENITH EXTREME with a 1st Gen AMD Threadripper 9050X with 32GB of RAM, 512 SSD, and 24 Disk StableBit Pool. Ok, 2 days ago, Windows tried to install the 2004 Windows Update. Our machine was one of the unlucky ones that the update would not take. After going round and round, we figured out we would need a clean install of windows. We couldn't get the install media to start, so we tried a BIOS update. That did the trick. Now I am at the point where I need to reinstall StableBit, and it says it can't find my license. After some searching these forums, apparently the BIOS update is what is preventing our key from working. I came to the site to try to deactivate the key, but that's not how this works it seems. As I stated above, I can't contact anyone to get help. What I am needing is for this key to be deactivated so I can reinstall StableBit. Can someone please tell me how to get in contact with them without the "Contact Us" link because I keep getting the above error. P.S. Ya know, actually, If the key is to be deactivated on the client, then did anyone think what happens if the computer bricks or hard crashes and can't start? How would anyone fix this with that? There needs to be a web based way to clear these keys. Windows does this, and that's low hanging fruit.
  4. Thanks. yea, I think I got it now. still busy making a mess of things, but I am getting the hang of it. Plus, windows decided to drop a big update on my head in the middle of it, but it's still good. I rebuilt the drives, and picked some better settings. I do have an interesting question tho, What's the best Storage Chunk Size for a 1gbit network connection to a windows file share? both machines are modern, and all devices on the LAN are at 1gbit. Too small seems to make everything work really hard, and too bit seems to slow things down, a lot. I have a number of projects that have both large sets of small files (source code projects) and some Video Projects that get into the 1GB~10GB range. TL;DR What would you recommend for the Storage Chunk Size, Cache Size, and Prefetch for a 1 Gbit LAN and windows file share server? Thanks!!!
  5. Ah, the thing I didn't have was stripping enabled. I was worried that was going to slow it down. Once I get the mess I made cleaned up, will give that a shot, Thanks!
  6. Hi, I got a question: Ok, Here's what I am starting with: Local Machine D: 2 GB E: 5 GB F: 3 GB Local Network Server Windows Fire Share Lots of space. Network: 10 gbit network. Now, what I want to do: (already tried, actually) 1st pool: Local Pool D: E: F: No duplication, just 1 big 10 GB pool. "Local Pool Drive" is the name. 2nd pool: Cloud Drive, Windows File Share Provider, 10 GB disk, no encryption. "File Share Drive" is the name. 3rd Final Pool +"Local Pool Drive" +"Fire Share Drive" Some folders like my Steam Games I don't want to duplicate because Steam is my 'backup' I set this up, but something went backwards as it seems to be trying to put the un-duplicated files on File Share Drive, which is not what I want. I am currently taking my files back off to be able to rebuild this. I think I've set some stuff up wrong. I understand the basics, but I am missing something in the details. Now, my thinking was to allow me to have a local 10 GB drive, and a 10 GB mirror on my file server. So, I get the best of both worlds. it seems it can "Technically" do this. What I would like to know is, when reading files, will I get local copy reads, or is everything going to grind to a halt with Server Reads? Is there a way to force local reads? I expect a cache would hide the uploads unless I went crazy on it. (hint, I copied all my files on it, it went crazy.) but, I was hoping for a Quazi live backup. So, I get full use of my local disk sizes and have a live backup if a drive ever failed or I wanted to upgrade a disk. Is this one of those "yea, it can, but it doesn't work like you think" or "yea, your just doing it wrong" things. What are the best options for Could Drive (pinning, network IO settings, cache size, drive setup settings) What are the best Local Disk options, D: E: F: and the Local Disk oh, and as a nutty side note, I tend to play games that like SSDs, I have a C: SSD but it's limited in size, (yea, I know, buy a new one, ... eventually I will) so, I would like to setup those games along side my others and add C: to D: E: and F: and tell it no files go on C: cept for the ones I say and EVERYTHING just looks like a D: drive because the actual drive letters will be hidden in disk manager. so, If I want to move a game into or off of my C:, Drive pool SHOULD make it as easy as clicking a couple of boxes right? That's a lot so summary: Can I force local reads when using a pool of Local Pool and Could Drive Pool together? Can I force certain files into specific drives only? (seems I can, just want to confirm) Can specific folders not be duplicated? (again, I think I know how, but there's a larger context here.) Can I do the above 3 at once? Thanks!
  7. Ok, I tried both the StableBit Drive Pool and Scanner, Love them, I've already kicked Drive Pool all over the place and it held up, so, it's gonna replace Spaces for my drives, and Scanner already helped me save the life of my drives because I didn't realize my enclosure was cooking the disks. So, I am going to pick them up. Now, Cloud Drive. This part is confusing to me. I had already understood (in concept) that it creates a local disk that gives a view of Google Drive. (which is what I want to use it for) and I've 'connected' my google account to Could Drive. But the next screen stopped me in my tracks. For 'Create...'ing a drive, Cloud Drive Size, Local Cache, Cache Type all made sense to me. I already have very important files on my Google Cloud I don't want to loose, so I didn't select encryption or duplication. Then I pulled down Advanced options..... Local Cache Drive only allows me to select any of my internal drives, none of my other usb disks show up, Then it goes into Sector Size / Chuck Size / Chunk Cache Size and [x] verify chunk integrity which I don't know much about but would assume the defaults are reasonable for now... however....... Format the Drive and Assign a Drive Letter..... Woah! stop. Format what, exactly? What is being formatted? The local disk?, erasing my Google Drive?, what are we talking about here? this is so super unclear that it is a 100% show stopper and why I am here. I do not want to risk either my local drive or my google drive. and then NTFS and Windows Default for the last two format options that made me come to a complete halt. I don't want to format anything, I am only seeing my local C: (boot) and D: (data) drives, not seeing any of my USB drives (not thumbs) and is connected to my google drive that I have stuff on I don't want to loose, and it's asking me to format something..... Could someone please explain this? I thought I would be able to have (for this example) an E: that is a good (view/copy/cache whatever) of my Google Drive that I can access and edit. Also, on my google drive, some of the documents we use take advantage of drives' history feature. (actually, it might be part of google sheets, it's a spreadsheet we use and sometime look at history on) What I was hoping to do is be able to use DrivePool and keep a local backup copy of all our work on google drive. So, what is this format option all about, what's getting formatted and how does it affect google drive?
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